Comfort food for fall

Now that the hot summer weather is behind us, we are looking forward to winter comfort food such as hearty soups, stews or chili — many made with root vegetables.

Cabbage Borscht With Short Ribs has always been one of my favorite cold-weather dishes. Growing up, I remember my great-aunt Mary serving it whenever we were invited to her home for dinner, and I always looked forward to the pungent sweet- and-sour flavors. It is a perfect one-pot meal — and even better when prepared the day before so that all of the flavors are allowed to blend.

Begin dinner by serving the cabbage borscht made with marrow bones in large soup bowls, reserving the short ribs for the main course to be served in the same dish. Don’t forget to pass a platter of the traditional hot piroshkis that are filled with sautéed chicken livers and baked until crisp. You can make them in advance; they will keep for several days in the refrigerator, or they can be frozen until ready to bake and serve. It’s the perfect pairing to help keep you cozy as we head into the heart of the fall season.

Then there are Banana-Pecan Streusel Loaves, a family treasure and standby ever since I can remember — for breakfast, lunch or even dinner, or to take as a gift when visiting friends. When friends pop in unexpectedly, I will microwave a frozen banana loaf and then pop it into the oven to crisp up. (It is impossible, once the loaf is reheated, to tell that it was ever frozen.) On a cold day, serve it with a glass of sweet wine or a cup of hot tea or coffee.

PIROSHKIS WITH CHICKEN LIVER FILLING

  • Chicken Liver Filling (recipe follows)
  • 1 1/2 cups flour
  • 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 pound unsalted margarine, cut into pieces
  • 1/8 cup cold water
  • 1 egg
  • 3 to 4 tablespoons unsalted margarine, melted

Preheat oven to 375 F.

Prepare Chicken Liver Filling and cool to room temperature. Set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer or processor, combine the flour, baking powder and salt. Add the pieces of margarine and blend or process until crumbly. Combine the water and egg and pour it into the flour mixture, blending until the dough forms a ball. Do not over-mix. Wrap in wax paper and chill for 10 minutes for easier handling.

On a floured board, roll out dough 1/8 inch thick. With a floured 3-inch-round cookie cutter, cut the dough into circles. Place 1 tablespoon of filling in the center of each circle.  Fold it over and pinch the edges to seal. Place the piroshkis on an oiled baking sheet. Brush them with melted margarine.

To freeze, if desired, place on baking sheets lined with floured kitchen towels, then cover with another towel and place in freezer. When the piroshkis are frozen, peel them off the towels and place in a plastic bag; return to freezer. Remove from freezer and defrost before baking.

Bake the piroshkis for 20 minutes, or until golden brown and crisp.

Makes about 30 piroshkis.

CHICKEN LIVER FILLING

  • 2 tablespoons unsalted margarine
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 1 pound chicken livers, chopped
  • 2 slices egg bread (crusts trimmed off and discarded), soaked in water and drained
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a medium skillet, melt the margarine and sauté the onion and garlic until soft. Add the chicken livers and bread and sauté, mixing well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cool to room temperature.

Makes about 2 to 3 cups.

CABBAGE BORSCHT WITH SHORT RIBS

  • 1 pound marrow bones, sliced (ask your butcher to do this)
  • 4 pounds short ribs, sliced between the bones
  • 3 onions, chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
  • 1 bay leaf, crushed
  • 1 head of cabbage, shredded
  • 4 uncooked beets, peeled and  julienned
  • 1 can (28 ounces) diced tomatoes with liquid or 6 fresh    tomatoes, peeled and    chopped
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil or 1 teaspoon dried
  • 1/2 teaspoon paprika
  • 1/2 cup brown sugar, packed
  • Juice of 4 to 5 lemons (about 2/3 cup)
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • Nondairy sour cream (optional)

In a large pot, combine the bones, short ribs, onions, garlic, parsley and bay leaf. Cover with water, bring to a boil, and skim off the foam from the top. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 2 hours. Chill and remove layer of fat that forms.

Add cabbage, beets, tomatoes, basil, paprika, brown sugar and lemon juice and continue to cook for 1 to 2 hours. Season to taste with salt and pepper; add additional brown sugar and/or lemon juice to taste. Ladle into large soup bowls and top with nondairy sour cream, if desired.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

BANANA-PECAN STREUSEL LOAVES

di-banana-cake

  • Streusel Topping (recipe follows)
  • 3/4 cup finely ground pecans
  • 2 cups sugar
  • 2 1/2 cups flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup unsalted margarine, cut in pieces
  • 2 cups toasted, chopped pecans
  • 2 cups (about 5 large) mashed bananas
  • 4 eggs
  • 1/2 cup nondairy creamer (such as Mocha Mix)

Prepare Streusel Topping. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 350 F.

Grease 4 (7-by-3-by-2-inch) loaf pans (3-cup size); sprinkle them with ground pecans and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, blend the sugar, flour, baking soda and salt. Add the margarine and blend until crumbly. Add the chopped pecans and mix well. 

In a medium bowl, beat together the bananas, eggs and nondairy creamer. Pour the banana mixture into the flour mixture all at once. Stir gently just until all the dry ingredients are moistened; do not over-stir. Spoon the batter into the prepared loaf pans. Sprinkle each loaf with 2 to 3 tablespoons of the Streusel Topping. 

Bake for 45 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean and the loaves begin to come away from the sides of the pans.  

Makes 4 loaves.

STREUSEL TOPPING

  • 2 cups brown sugar, packed
  • 1/4 cup flour
  • 2  teaspoons cinnamon
  • 1/4 cup unsalted margarine
  • 2 cups chopped pecans 

In a large mixing bowl, stir together the brown sugar, flour, cinnamon and margarine, just until crumbly; do not over-mix. Stir in the chopped pecans. 

Makes about 1 cup.

Similar Posts

  • Latkes and farinata: something familiar, something new

    These days, my family has spread out, but as always, we will all be coming together for Chanukah, because no one wants to miss the Chanukah reunion dinner, our favorite family get-together. It is a time to catch up on family gossip and enjoy each other’s company, a time to sit around the table and reminisce about the past, light the Chanukah candles, eat and open the holiday presents. When…

  • Cooking 101: A practical lesson for college students

    Smoked salmon and cream cheese panini. Photos by Morgan Lieberman  Spending a lovely summer back home in the Los Angeles area, Morgan Lieberman was doing what she enjoys most: using her camera to shoot photos. From time to time during those warm days, she found her way into my kitchen — and my heart — shooting photos of food for the Journal and its monthly magazine, TRIBE. When she returned…

  • Avoid Shower Cliche with Salad Buffet

    A bridal shower is one of the most joyous parties you can possibly give, and the occasion calls for light, delicious festive foods.  This menu offers four of my personal favorite chicken salad recipes.  (For a smaller shower, you could serve just two or three)  The French often serve a sampling of different foods and call it a “degustation,” so here’s your chance to be both chic and unique. Each…

  • Recipe: Chopped liver with wine aspic

    Molded Chopped Liver with Concord Grape Wine Aspic. Photo by Morgan Lieberman Jewish cuisine has always gotten a bad rap, and very often I hear the expression that “heavy Jewish food” is not healthy, but we have been cooking nutritious Jewish food for our family for as long as I can remember. Students in my cooking class always ask me for a healthy recipe for chicken soup that tastes really…

  • Matzah Madness!

    Ground Beef and Matzah “Lasagna” (See page 2) Photos by Dan Kacvinski. Food coordinated by Judy Zeidler Families will gather at sundown on March 25 and begin the eight-day observance of Passover, commemorating the centuries-old flight of the Jewish people from slavery in Egypt to their subsequent freedom. It is also known as the Festival of Matzah, or unleavened bread, because in their exodus, the Jews had little time to…

  • BBQ Cook-Off

    Recently we had guests over for dinner and the conversation turned to how to achieve the best backyard barbecue. Fortunately, several of the people were serious home chefs who love to cook. Two of our foodie friends, Lou and Stephen, got into a heated conversation about how they prepare meat or fish, how long it takes to fire up the barbecue, different spices to use, and the effort it takes…