Comfort food for fall

Cabbage Borscht With Short Ribs has always been one of my favorite cold-weather dishes. Growing up, I remember my great-aunt Mary serving it whenever we were invited to her home for dinner, and I always looked forward to the pungent sweet- and-sour flavors. It is a perfect one-pot meal — and even better when prepared the day before so that all of the flavors are allowed to blend.

Begin dinner by serving the cabbage borscht made with marrow bones in large soup bowls, reserving the short ribs for the main course to be served in the same dish. Don’t forget to pass a platter of the traditional hot piroshkis that are filled with sautéed chicken livers and baked until crisp. You can make them in advance; they will keep for several days in the refrigerator, or they can be frozen until ready to bake and serve. It’s the perfect pairing to help keep you cozy as we head into the heart of the fall season.

Then there are Banana-Pecan Streusel Loaves, a family treasure and standby ever since I can remember — for breakfast, lunch or even dinner, or to take as a gift when visiting friends. When friends pop in unexpectedly, I will microwave a frozen banana loaf and then pop it into the oven to crisp up. (It is impossible, once the loaf is reheated, to tell that it was ever frozen.) On a cold day, serve it with a glass of sweet wine or a cup of hot tea or coffee.

PIROSHKIS WITH CHICKEN LIVER FILLING

• Chicken Liver Filling (recipe follows)
• 1 1/2 cups flour
• 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 pound unsalted margarine, cut into pieces
• 1/8 cup cold water
• 1 egg
• 3 to 4 tablespoons unsalted margarine, melted

Preheat oven to 375 F.

Prepare Chicken Liver Filling and cool to room temperature. Set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer or processor, combine the flour, baking powder and salt. Add the pieces of margarine and blend or process until crumbly. Combine the water and egg and pour it into the flour mixture, blending until the dough forms a ball. Do not over-mix. Wrap in wax paper and chill for 10 minutes for easier handling.

On a floured board, roll out dough 1/8 inch thick. With a floured 3-inch-round cookie cutter, cut the dough into circles. Place 1 tablespoon of filling in the center of each circle.  Fold it over and pinch the edges to seal. Place the piroshkis on an oiled baking sheet. Brush them with melted margarine.

To freeze, if desired, place on baking sheets lined with floured kitchen towels, then cover with another towel and place in freezer. When the piroshkis are frozen, peel them off the towels and place in a plastic bag; return to freezer. Remove from freezer and defrost before baking.

Bake the piroshkis for 20 minutes, or until golden brown and crisp.

Makes about 30 piroshkis.

CHICKEN LIVER FILLING

• 2 tablespoons unsalted margarine
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 pound chicken livers, chopped
• 2 slices egg bread (crusts trimmed off and discarded), soaked in water and drained
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a medium skillet, melt the margarine and sauté the onion and garlic until soft. Add the chicken livers and bread and sauté, mixing well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cool to room temperature.

Makes about 2 to 3 cups.

CABBAGE BORSCHT WITH SHORT RIBS

• 1 pound marrow bones, sliced (ask your butcher to do this)
• 4 pounds short ribs, sliced between the bones
• 3 onions, chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
• 1 bay leaf, crushed
• 1 head of cabbage, shredded
• 4 uncooked beets, peeled and  julienned
• 1 can (28 ounces) diced tomatoes with liquid or 6 fresh    tomatoes, peeled and    chopped
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil or 1 teaspoon dried
• 1/2 teaspoon paprika
• 1/2 cup brown sugar, packed
• Juice of 4 to 5 lemons (about 2/3 cup)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Nondairy sour cream (optional)

In a large pot, combine the bones, short ribs, onions, garlic, parsley and bay leaf. Cover with water, bring to a boil, and skim off the foam from the top. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 2 hours. Chill and remove layer of fat that forms.

Add cabbage, beets, tomatoes, basil, paprika, brown sugar and lemon juice and continue to cook for 1 to 2 hours. Season to taste with salt and pepper; add additional brown sugar and/or lemon juice to taste. Ladle into large soup bowls and top with nondairy sour cream, if desired.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

BANANA-PECAN STREUSEL LOAVES

• Streusel Topping (recipe follows)
• 3/4 cup finely ground pecans
• 2 cups sugar
• 2 1/2 cups flour
• 2 teaspoons baking soda
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup unsalted margarine, cut in pieces
• 2 cups toasted, chopped pecans
• 2 cups (about 5 large) mashed bananas
• 4 eggs
• 1/2 cup nondairy creamer (such as Mocha Mix)

Prepare Streusel Topping. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 350 F.

Grease 4 (7-by-3-by-2-inch) loaf pans (3-cup size); sprinkle them with ground pecans and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, blend the sugar, flour, baking soda and salt. Add the margarine and blend until crumbly. Add the chopped pecans and mix well. 

In a medium bowl, beat together the bananas, eggs and nondairy creamer. Pour the banana mixture into the flour mixture all at once. Stir gently just until all the dry ingredients are moistened; do not over-stir. Spoon the batter into the prepared loaf pans. Sprinkle each loaf with 2 to 3 tablespoons of the Streusel Topping. 

Bake for 45 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean and the loaves begin to come away from the sides of the pans.  

Makes 4 loaves.

STREUSEL TOPPING

• 2 cups brown sugar, packed
• 1/4 cup flour
• 2  teaspoons cinnamon
• 1/4 cup unsalted margarine
• 2 cups chopped pecans 

In a large mixing bowl, stir together the brown sugar, flour, cinnamon and margarine, just until crumbly; do not over-mix. Stir in the chopped pecans. 

Makes about 1 cup.