Pumpkin Date Nut Bread. Photos by Dan Kacvinski

Thanksgiving dinner calls to mind roast turkey with stuffing and gravy, sweet potatoes, rolls and cranberries. But the holiday meal wouldn’t be the same without a variety of pies and pumpkin desserts.

My friend, chef Michel Richard, who started his career as a pastry chef, was once asked if dessert is necessary.

“I guess I would call dessert a necessary luxury or maybe a luxurious necessity,” he said.

While each family has their traditional Thanksgiving menu, desserts often change. This year, try some new ideas to provide a sweet ending for the holiday.

Early versions of pumpkin pie treated pumpkins like apples — they were sliced and sometimes sautéed with herbs and spices. I have included two of my favorite pumpkin pie recipes: One is a nondairy version that is similar to the traditional pudding type; the other, Pumpkin Chiffon Pie, is much lighter, but I always use the same pie crust for both.

Children will love the Frosted Pumpkin Cookies, and my family always looks forward to my Pumpkin Date Nut Bread, Pumpkin Bundt Cake and Pumpkin Fritters. The recipe for the Pumpkin Flan, which is nondairy, is from a friend, Meryl, who shared it with me many years ago.

Finally, it would not be Thanksgiving without a Chocolate Pecan Pie. (You can find this recipe and the Pumpkin Fritters recipe at tribejournal.com.)

Each of my recipes has a story and is a reminder of someone who has touched my life or shared their recipe with me. For a special treat, ask your guests to contribute to the dessert table and ask them to bring the recipe to share.

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PUMPKIN CHIFFON PIE

∗ Sweet Pastry Dough pie crust (recipe follows)
∗ 1 1/4 cups canned 100% pure pumpkin
∗ 3 eggs, separated
∗ 1 cup sugar
∗ 1/4 teaspoon mace
∗ 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
∗ 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
∗ 1/4 teaspoon salt
∗ 1 envelope plain, unflavored gelatin
∗ 1/4 cup cold water
∗ Whipped cream for garnish (optional)

Prepare Sweet Pastry Dough pie crust; bake and set aside to cool.

Combine pumpkin, egg yolks, 1/2 cup sugar, mace, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt in the top of a double boiler, bring to a boil, and simmer for 10 minutes, mixing constantly.

Dissolve gelatin in cold water and let stand for 5 minutes. Add to pumpkin mixture and blend. Cool.

Beat egg whites until they cling to sides of bowl. Add remaining 1/2 cup sugar, and beat until stiff but not dry. Fold pumpkin mixture into egg white mixture. Pour into baked pie crust and refrigerate until set. Garnish with whipped cream.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

SWEET PASTRY DOUGH PIE CRUST

∗ 1 1/2 cups flour
∗ 1/2 teaspoon salt
∗ 1/3 cup powdered sugar
∗ 1/2 cup unsalted margarine or butter
∗ 3 tablespoons water or milk

Combine flour, salt and powdered sugar in a large mixing bowl. Cut in the margarine until mixture is crumbly. Blend in water until the dough begins to come together. Do not over-mix. Knead dough into a ball, wrap in waxed paper, and chill for at least 10 minutes in the refrigerator.

On two large overlapping sheets of floured waxed paper, roll pastry out to a round large enough to cover and overlap the edges of a 9-inch pie pan. For easier handling, cover the rolled-out pastry with another sheet of waxed paper and fold pastry in half. (The waxed paper in the center prevents the pastry from sticking together when folded.)

Lift the bottom sheet of waxed paper from the folded pastry, and place the pastry on half of the pie pan. Unfold the pastry to cover the entire pan, then remove the waxed paper that covers it. (At this point the pastry-lined pan can be covered with plastic wrap and foil and stored in the refrigerator overnight or in the freezer for several days.)

Before baking, bring the pastry to room temperature.

Preheat oven to 375 F.

Spread a light coating of margarine on two sheets of waxed paper. Place one sheet, coated side down, inside the pastry, overhanging outside of pan. Repeat with second sheet, overhanging other side of pan. Fill center of the waxed-paper-lined pie shell with uncooked rice or pie weights.

Bake in preheated oven 15 to 20 minutes, until sides of pastry begin to brown. Carefully remove waxed paper with the rice; continue baking until bottom of the pastry is lightly browned. Remove from oven; let cool completely.

Makes 1 (9-inch) pie crust.

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NONDAIRY PUMPKIN PIE

∗ 2 cups canned 100% pure pumpkin (may use one 15-ounce can)
∗ 1 1/3 cups soy milk
∗ 2 large eggs
∗ 1 large egg white
∗ 1 teaspoon cornstarch
∗ 3/4 cup sugar
∗ 1/2 teaspoon salt
∗ 1 teaspoon cinnamon
∗ 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
∗ 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
∗ 1 (9-inch) unbaked pie shell (you may use the Sweet Pastry Dough pie crust recipe, above, but do not bake the pie crust before filling)

Preheat oven to 425 F.

Put pumpkin, soy milk, eggs and egg white in a blender; blend well.

Combine dry ingredients together in a bowl; add to blender. Blend until smooth. Pour mixture into unbaked pie shell.

Bake in preheated oven 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 F and bake 40 to 50 minutes longer or until knife inserted in center comes out clean. Cool.

Makes 8 servings.

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MERYL’S PUMPKIN FLAN

∗ 1/2 cup granulated sugar
∗ 3/4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
∗ 1 teaspoon cinnamon
∗ 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
∗ 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
∗ 1/4 teaspoon salt
∗ 1 cup canned 100% pure pumpkin
∗ 1 1/2 cups nondairy creamer
∗ 5 eggs, lightly beaten
∗ 1 teaspoon vanilla
∗ Toasted pumpkin seeds for garnish

Preheat oven to 350 F.

In a heavy skillet, melt granulated sugar over very low heat, stirring often, until caramel colored. Quickly pour melted sugar into ungreased 9-inch pie plate. Rotate plate so the caramelized sugar covers bottom and sides. (It won’t stick to pan. It melts!)

Combine brown sugar, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, salt and pumpkin in medium bowl. Add creamer, eggs and vanilla; mix well. Pour into prepared pie plate.

Set pie plate in larger pan and add hot water (bain marie) until water comes halfway up side of pie plate. Bake 1 hour and 10 minutes, or until knife inserted in center comes out clean. Cool. Refrigerate 2 to 3 hours or overnight.

Before serving, loosen sides of flan with knife, and invert onto serving plate. Garnish with a sprinkle of toasted pumpkin seeds.

Makes 8 servings.

PUMPKIN DATE NUT BREAD

∗ 2 cups sugar
∗ 2 cups canned pumpkin pie mix (may use one 15-ounce can)
∗ 2 eggs
∗ 1/2 cup oil
∗ 2 1/2 cups flour
∗ 1 teaspoon baking soda
∗ 1/2 teaspoon salt
∗ 1 teaspoon cinnamon
∗ 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
∗ 1 cup chopped walnuts or pecans
∗ 1 cup chopped dates

Preheat oven to 350 F.

Brush three 9-by-5-inch loaf pans with oil and dust lightly with finely ground nuts or flour.

In large bowl of an electric mixer, combine sugar, pumpkin pie mix, eggs and oil; blend well.

In separate bowl, mix together flour, baking soda, salt, cinnamon and cloves. Add combined dry ingredients to pumpkin mixture; blend well. Stir in walnuts and dates. Pour into prepared loaf pans.

Bake in preheated oven 50 to 60 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in pans for 15 to 20 minutes, then remove from pans and cool completely on wire racks.

Makes 3 loaves.

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PUMPKIN BUNDT CAKE

∗ 1/2 cup unsalted margarine or butter
∗ 1/4 cup water
∗ 2 cups sugar
∗ 1 cup applesauce
∗ 2 cups canned pumpkin pie mix (may use one 15-ounce can)
∗ 2 eggs
∗ 2 1/2 cups sifted flour
∗ 2 teaspoons salt
∗ 1 tablespoon baking soda
∗ 1 1/2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
∗ 1/2 cup chopped walnuts or pecans
∗ 1/2 cup chopped dates
∗ 1/2 cup raisins
∗ Powdered sugar

Preheat oven to 350 F.

Brush a Bundt pan with melted margarine and sprinkle with finely ground nuts or flour.

In large bowl of an electric mixer, mix together 1/2 cup margarine, water and sugar. Blend in applesauce and pumpkin pie mix. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.

In separate bowl, sift together flour, salt, baking soda and pumpkin pie spice. Gradually add to pumpkin mixture, blending well. Fold in walnuts, dates and raisins. Pour batter into prepared bundt pan.

Bake in preheated oven 50 to 60 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool in pan 5 minutes, then invert onto serving plate. Just before serving, sprinkle with powdered sugar.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

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Frosted Pumpkin Cookies

FROSTED PUMPKIN COOKIES

COOKIE BATTER:

∗ 2 1/2 cups flour
∗ 1 teaspoon baking powder
∗ 1 teaspoon baking soda
∗ 2 teaspoons cinnamon
∗ 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
∗ 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
∗ 1/2 teaspoon salt
∗ 1/2 cup unsalted margarine or butter, softened
∗ 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
∗ 1 cup canned 100% pure pumpkin
∗ 1 egg
∗ 1 teaspoon vanilla

FROSTING:

∗ 2 cups powdered sugar
∗ 3 tablespoons orange juice
∗ 1 tablespoon melted unsalted margarine
∗ 1 teaspoon vanilla

Preheat oven to 350 F.

To make cookie batter, combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and salt; set aside.

In large bowl of an electric mixer, cream together margarine and granulated sugar. Add pumpkin, egg and vanilla; beat until creamy. Mix in dry ingredients.

Drop cookies by teaspoonsful onto oiled baking sheet or silicone baking sheet and flatten slightly.

Bake in preheated oven 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from oven, cool a few minutes, then transfer to cooling racks, and let cool completely. Spread frosting on tops of cookies.

To make frosting: Combine all frosting ingredients, adding more orange juice or powdered sugar as needed to achieve a thick consistency.

Makes about 60 cookies.